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Problem with ad50vt

Discussion forum for all the 'Chrome' series ADxxVT range of Valvetronix amps

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Re: Problem with ad50vt

Postby xxbrian2x » 08 Feb 2012, 07:41

no other thoughts on this? because im about to get rid of this amp if i cant fix it.. It seems to only happen when the amp is first turn on, one effect goes on, i turn it off and a about 30 seconds later same thing, this happens about 3 times, then it stops. But no matter what i turn the effect dial too half the dial is auto wah and the other half is a delay...any other ideas would really be appreciated because i dont want to have to get a new amp.
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Re: Problem with ad50vt

Postby xxbrian2x » 12 Feb 2012, 18:58

anyone?
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Re: Problem with ad50vt

Postby retrobob » 12 Feb 2012, 19:18

xxbrian2x wrote:no other thoughts on this?

If you have performed the recommendations and cleaned the potentiometer several times and still no change, most likely the potentiometer is bad (damaged) and needs replacing.

Other than cleaning the potentiometer again to be sure, unless you have the skills and tools to work on PCB's it is probably time to go to a tech.
**MENTAL NOTE!**
The WARRANTY comes first! Before any modification is considered, check to see how it effects the product's warranty and weigh the benefits accordingly!
*All modifications are always USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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Re: Problem with ad50vt

Postby xxbrian2x » 13 Feb 2012, 04:35

dang.. any idea on how much that would cost? For the part and for work?
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Re: Problem with ad50vt

Postby Kyle B » 04 Apr 2012, 04:39

Vox should sell you one for less than $5, and another $5 for shipping (I've never actually ordered parts from Vox, but I've bought plenty from tons of other manufacturers, and they all sell parts for around that much).

There's a 95% chance it's a bad pot, and it IS kind of a specialty piece. The CPU reads the resistance, the stops (detents) are just for you to have something to feel. The CPU is just looking for where you land when you turn it. It MIGHT have been damaged with some liquid, which would change it's resistance characteristics, or it might be physically worn out.

Replacing it isn't very hard. If you know somebody who's decent with a soldering gun you can take care of it. Note there's some screws that hold the upper (digital) board in place that you access through the bottom of the unit, through some holes drilled in the bottom (power) board.

I'd actually try removing it, take it apart, clean it, reassemble, and it'd probably work -- Cost $0
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